Becoming a Minimalist

When it comes to cutting back on meat, you don’t have to go all the way to get results.

“This way of eating isn’t about deprivation, faux food, or substitutions for things you ‘can’t have,’” says food writer and professional cook Tara Mataraza Desmond, coauthor of a new cookbook with restaurant critic Joy Manning, Almost Meatless: Recipes That Are Better for Your Health and the Planet.

The duo’s cookbook offers a fresh perspective on cutting back on meat without missing it. “Unless you eat exclusively at steakhouses or burger joints, this way of eating isn’t hard to adopt,” says Desmond. Almost Meatless offers flavor-packed recipes that are enhanced by meat rather than based on it. Even if you’re faced with feeding a picky crowd, these are family-friendly dishes that call for healthful grilling instead of frying, adding a little chameleonlike tofu in place of excess beef, and using more whole grains for texture and taste.

Every recipe in the pair’s new cookbook operates on the simple principle that when it comes to meat, less is more. “Eating this way saves calories and money, and if more people ate this way, it would clearly benefit the environment,” says Desmond, observing the adverse effects on the environment of certain practices associated with animal raising, feedlots, and slaughter. An avid marathon runner and recipe developer for various cookbooks and TV’s Food Network, Desmond shares her foodie thoughts online at www.crumbsonmykeyboard.com.

“People think anything that cuts meat from their diets is a punishment, but the opposite is true,” insists Manning, who blogs daily about restaurants in Philadelphia, where she also likes to cook at home with her husband.

Manning has come full circle with her eating preferences—from a vegan diet and back to eating meat. “As a vegan, I ate a steady stream of prepackaged vegan junk. The way I eat now—lots of vegetables and grains, a little meat—makes me feel better and helps me manage my weight. And every time I buy a chicken or a pound of bacon from one of our local farmers, I’m helping my local economy while keeping my money away from agribusiness,” she says.

 “There’s a whole world of irresistibly delicious ingredients out there, including beans, bulgur, quinoa, and all kinds of fresh vegetables, that you’ll never try until you take the focus off meat,” Manning insists. She can’t think of a vegetable that she doesn’t like, even those no one else seems to enjoy. “Tara and I love food, and we weren’t satisfied until every recipe in the book delivered a plate of food so delicious that it doesn’t feel like something is missing,” she explains. “It isn’t diet food. It’s satisfying food that you will relish eating.”

MICHELE DEPPE is an award-winning freelance writer and the associate editor of Today’s Diet & Nutrition.

Potato Corn Chowder

The best corn chowders are rich with a strong undercurrent of smoky pork flavor. This recipe achieves both of those things, but amazingly with just 2 slices of bacon and not a drop of cream. Here, we marshal the awesome power of bacon and silken tofu for a wholesome and hearty soup that’s as thick as traditional chowder but without the excess fat and calories of a cream-based dish. Don’t tell your friends and family about the tofu until they’ve licked their bowls clean. For a vegan version, omit the bacon, substitute 2 tablespoons nutritional yeast for the Parmesan cheese rind, swap vegetable broth for the chicken stock, and season with smoked salt.

Serves 4 to 6

2 slices bacon, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice
6 ounces silken tofu
5 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
Salt and pepper
1 medium onion, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice
1 pound Yukon potatoes, peeled and cut into 1⁄2-inch dice
4 cups chicken stock
1 bay leaf
3 (2-inch) pieces Parmesan cheese rind
1 small bunch chives, minced

Cook the bacon in a Dutch oven or large saucepot over medium heat for about 5 to 7 minutes, until the fat renders and the bacon is crisp. Remove the bacon bits from the pot and set aside.

While the bacon is cooking, combine the tofu with 2 cups of corn and 1⁄2 teaspoon salt in a food processor and puree until smooth and creamy. Set aside.

Add the onion to the bacon fat left in the pot, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, until the onion is completely softened but not brown.
Add the potatoes and the remaining 3 cups corn, along with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper, and stir to combine. Add the stock, bay leaf, and cheese rind, bring the liquid to a boil, and then reduce the heat; let the soup simmer for 20 minutes, until the potatoes are very tender. Remove the cheese rind and bay leaf.

Working in batches, puree about half the soup in a blender or food processor. (Or blend partially with a stick blender in the pot.) Return the pureed soup to the pot and stir in the pureed tofu and corn mixture. Simmer for 10 more minutes. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust as needed. Top with chives and reserved bacon bits.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 4 servings): Calories: 310; Total Fat: 5 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 1 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 2 mg; Sodium: 1,002 mg; Carbohydrates: 59 g; Fiber: 8 g; Protein: 12 g
TD&N Tip: Save 858 milligrams of sodium by using low-sodium stock.

Ful Mudammas Gyros

Gyros are the famous Mediterranean street sandwiches known for the lamb shaved from a giant column of rotating roasted meat. In our version, marinated leg of lamb is grilled and sliced thin, then tucked into super-soft pita bread with hearty bean spread and cool, creamy tzatziki. If you can’t find canned fava beans to make a quick version of the thick garlicky ful mudammas bean spread, use a combination of cooked white beans and chickpeas.

Serves 4

Tzatziki
1⁄2 cucumber, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice (about 1⁄2 cup)
1⁄2 cup Greek yogurt*
1 clove garlic, minced and mashed to a paste with 1⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt
1⁄4 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves, chopped (optional)
Salt (optional)

Lamb
1 (12-ounce) leg of lamb steak
Zest of 1⁄2 lemon
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
2 cloves garlic, minced or crushed
1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Ful Mudammas
1 1⁄2 cups fava beans, cooked, or 1 (15-ounce) can, drained and rinsed
1 clove garlic, minced and mashed to a paste with 1⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt
Zest of 1⁄2 lemon
Juice of 1⁄2 lemon (about 2 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1⁄2 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 pocketless pitas or flatbreads
2 pounds tomatoes, chopped

To make the tzatziki, combine the cucumber, yogurt, garlic, and mint if desired in a small bowl and stir until combined. Taste, adding salt if needed. Cover and refrigerate until you’re ready to use.

To marinate the lamb, whisk together the lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil, oregano, garlic, and pepper in a large glass bowl. Add the lamb and flip the meat several times to coat in the marinade. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour.

To make the ful mudammas, while the lamb marinates, combine the beans, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Smash the beans with a pestle, fork, or a wooden spoon to form a textured paste. Season with additional salt if necessary.

Preheat the grill to medium-high. Place the lamb on the hot grill and discard the remaining marinade. Grill for about 4 minutes per side, until the meat reaches medium-rare (about 130˚F on a meat thermometer). Take the lamb off the grill and let it rest for about 5 minutes before slicing very thinly across the grain.

To assemble, put about 1⁄4 cup of the fava bean mixture on each pita or flatbread. Add 3 or 4 slices of lamb, a spoonful of the chopped tomato, and a dollop of tzatziki, and wrap the pita around the filling. Repeat with the remaining ingredients, and serve.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis: Calories: 481; Total Fat: 14 g; Saturated Fat: 3 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 2 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 7 g; Cholesterol: 56 mg; Sodium: 543 mg; Carbohydrates: 60 g; Fiber: 12 g; Protein: 34 g
Note: Analysis uses 0% fat Greek yogurt

Caramelized Onion Meat Loaf

We know. Meat loaf evokes images of bland dinners off the kitchen tables of black and white television shows. And the words “meat” and “loaf” molded together as a pair are unappealing. OK, and sometimes meatloaf doesn’t even look delicious. But the colorful tastes of this beef and tofu (give it a chance, meat lovers) combo, boosted by caramelized onions and a tangy sweet glaze, will surprise you as much as if Beaver Cleaver used “colorful” language at supper. Crumbled tofu takes on the flavors and textures of hearty ground beef and drastically cuts the fat content of this classic. The recipe serves a good number of folks, so make it for a crowd, or have a loaf of soft white bread on hand for sandwiches later in the week. One bite and you’ll be piling on the mashed potatoes and buttered peas while waving an American flag.

Serves 6 to 8

1 tablespoon bacon fat, vegetable oil, or butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium onion, cut into 1⁄8-inch dice (about 1 cup)
2 medium carrots, cut into 1⁄8-inch dice (about 1 cup)
2 stalks celery, cut into 1⁄8-inch dice (about 1 cup)
2 cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon)
1⁄2 cup chicken stock or beef stock
2 eggs
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 1⁄2 cups (3 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1⁄4 cup (about 1⁄2 ounce) dried porcini mushrooms, ground to crumbs in a food processor
1⁄4 cup fresh bread crumbs
1 pound ground chuck
1 pound extra-firm tofu, pressed and crumbled
1⁄2 cup ketchup
1⁄4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon hot sauce
3 tablespoons brown sugar

To cook the onion mixture, in a large, heavy-bottomed pan over medium-low heat, combine the bacon fat, oil, a pinch of salt, and the onion. Caramelize the onion slowly for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and reducing the heat if it browns too quickly. When the onion is completely soft and a deep brown, turn the heat up to medium-high, add the carrots, celery, and garlic, and sauté for about 1 minute. Add the stock and bring to a boil, stirring to scrape the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Reduce the liquid by half. Set aside to cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 375˚F.

To mix and form the loaf, in a large bowl, whisk the eggs, Worcestershire sauce, and mustard. Add the cheese, onion mixture, mushrooms, bread crumbs, beef, tofu, 2 teaspoons salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Mix gently to combine and form into a loaf on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 1 hour.

To make the glaze, while the loaf is baking, combine the ketchup, vinegar, hot sauce, 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, and the brown sugar in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about 5 minutes, until it resembles syrup.

To glaze and serve, after the loaf has finished baking, remove from the oven, preheat the broiler, and brush the loaf with the glaze. Keeping a close watch on it, broil for 5 to 8 minutes, until the glaze has browned. Let the loaf cool for at least 20 minutes before slicing.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 6 servings): Calories: 468; Total Fat: 22 g; Saturated Fat: 7 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 2 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 4 g; Cholesterol: 139 mg; Sodium: 937 mg; Carbohydrates: 26 g; Fiber: 3 g; Protein: 40 g

Recipes reprinted from Almost Meatless: Recipes That Are Better for Your Health and the Planet by Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond. Copyright © 2009. Ten Speed Press, www.tenspeed.com