Harissa: A Taste of North Africa

Harissa has become a generic name for a deep red chile paste found throughout North Africa and parts of the Middle East. Believed to have originated in Tunisia, it is also widely used in the cuisines of Algeria and Morocco, where it’s often served as a dip for warm, freshly baked bread and is added to many dishes for its distinctive flavor.

Traditionally, harissa is made at home by softening dried red chiles in water before pounding them into a paste using a mortar and pestle. To this paste, cooks in each region will add their preferred spice mixtures, consisting primarily of coriander, cumin, caraway, garlic and, in some households, dried mint. Seasoned with salt and moistened with olive oil, this fiery paste is usually made in batches and kept in the kitchen for daily use.

As with most authentic mixtures, it is best to make your own harissa so you can experiment with different chiles and fine-tune the garlic and spices to your own taste. Using a mortar and pestle or a blender, it’s easy to make harissa by pounding the softened hot chiles with the other ingredients. Spooned into a jar and topped with olive oil, this paste will keep in the refrigerator for two to three weeks.

Jars of ready-made harissa can be bought from Middle Eastern and North African stores, as well as from many well-stocked supermarkets. Harissa is also sold as a dried spice to which you add oil and crushed garlic. The United Kingdom spice company Seasoned Pioneers, which delivers internationally (www.seasonedpioneers.com), produces an excellent dried harissa mixture that’s ideal for making flavored oils and marinades.
A spoonful of harissa goes a long way. You can stir it into stews, soups, stir-fries, and pasta sauces to liven them up with a chile kick. You can blend it with a little olive oil and serve it as a dipping sauce for steamed, grilled, or deep-fried seafood and vegetables. You can smear it on chops, drumsticks, and other meats before barbecuing. And, if you are a serious chile fan, you can put fire in your belly by spreading it on chunks of fresh, crispy bread or, instead of ketchup, dollop it onto your favorite snack.

Robust and richly flavored, harissa is so versatile, you may wonder how on earth you have done without it.

Harissa Dip

8 ounces thick and creamy strained plain yogurt
2 to 4 tablespoons harissa (depending on taste)
Small bunch fresh cilantro, finely chopped (reserve a little for garnish)
Small bunch fresh mint, finely chopped (reserve a little for garnish)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Spoon the yogurt into a bowl and beat in as much harissa as you like. Stir in most of the cilantro and mint and season with salt and pepper to taste. Tip the mixture into a serving bowl, garnish with the rest of the cilantro and mint, and serve as a dip with strips of cucumber, carrot, and celery, with grilled and roasted vegetables, or with baked potatoes and roasted potato skins.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 18 servings): Calories: 29; Total Fat: 1 g; Saturated Fat: 0 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 0 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 0 g; Cholesterol: 1 mg; Sodium: 17 mg; Carbohydrates: 4 g; Fiber: 0 g; Protein: 2 g

Harissa Mayonnaise

2 room temperature egg yolks*
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
10 ounces olive oil
1 to 2 tablespoons harissa
Small bunch fresh cilantro, finely chopped

Put the egg yolks, vinegar, and salt into a mixing bowl. Gradually beat in the oil a few drops at a time. Once a third of the oil has been added, trickle it in more quickly, beating all the time to form a light, creamy mayonnaise. Beat in the harissa and some of the cilantro. Spoon the mayonnaise into a serving bowl and garnish with the remaining cilantro. Serve with grilled or steamed seafood, steamed asparagus, steamed or roasted potatoes, or barbecued chicken.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 30 servings): Calories: 87; Total Fat: 10 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 1 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 7 g; Cholesterol: 14 mg; Sodium: 39 mg; Carbohydrates: 0 g; Fiber: 0 g; Protein: 0 g

*Editor’s Note: Consumption of raw eggs may pose a health hazard because uncooked eggs may be contaminated with Salmonella. To avoid that risk, use only pasteurized eggs (such as Davidson’s Eggs) when preparing recipes calling for raw or undercooked eggs.

Harissa Oil

2 dried chiles
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 fingerful dried mint leaves, crumbled
1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
Roughly 10 ounces olive oil

Using a mortar and pestle, grind the dried ingredients together to form a coarse mixture. Add the garlic and stir in the olive oil. Pour the mixture into a jar, allow the spices to settle, and store for at least one week to allow the flavors to mingle. Use liberally for marinating and roasting and for brushing over cuts of meat on the barbecue.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 25 servings): Calories: 102; Total Fat: 12 g; Saturated Fat: 2 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 2 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 8 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 47 mg; Carbohydrates: 1 g; Fiber: 0 g; Protein: 0 g

— Ghillie Basan, an authority on the culinary cultures of Turkey, the Middle East, North Africa, and southeast Asia, is a food and travel writer based in the Scottish Highlands, where she runs hands-on, informative cookery workshops (www.ghilliebasan.com).

Harissa Tips

Add a spoonful of harissa to a fresh or roasted tomato salsa to serve with tacos and sour cream, baked or grilled fish or chicken, and baked potatoes.
Toss a little harissa into a dish of roasted summer vegetables to give them a chile lift and serve with garlic-flavored yogurt to refresh the palate.
Use as a fiery condiment for falafel and meatballs tucked into pita bread pockets with onions, flat-leaf parsley, and yogurt.
Stir a little into the pan while searing prawns or squid and serve with finely chopped coriander.
Instead of plain roasted potatoes, cut potatoes into bite-size chunks, cook them in olive oil with whole cloves of garlic and black olives, and stir in a spoonful or two of harissa toward the end.
Rub whole quails or poussins with a garlicky harissa before roasting or grilling.
Serve harissa as a spiky condiment with fried or poached eggs.
Smear a little harissa in the base of a tasty baguette sandwich filled with delicious items such as feta cheese, salad leaves, flat-leaf parsley, fresh cilantro, roasted vegetables, or cured meats.