French Country Cooking

Award-winning chef and author Anne Willan dishes on the cuisines of France.

If you want to understand French country cooking, says one expert, you need to know just a little bit about the nation’s geography. “There are literally hundreds of special regional dishes in France,” says Chef Anne Willan, whose most recent book, The Country Cooking of France, earned a James Beard Foundation Award. “If we understand that France is surrounded by three separate oceans and has three very different mountain areas, we begin to see how it’s possible that there are at least 20 areas that offer distinct cuisines.”

But how do you recognize a Provinçal specialty from a meal typical of Alsace? Is it the meat used? The type of salt?

“Fancy salt is actually a city thing, not something one finds in the country,” says the British-born Willan, in a butter-rich voice with a refined, continental accent. “In the country, we really only have fleur de sel, gray, and processed salt. The flavored salts are a new trend.”

The secret to recognizing the signature of Provence, Willan reveals, is in the herbs. “As Simone Beck said, the taste of Provence is basil and, of course, herbes de Provence, as well as wild thyme, fennel, oregano, and possibly sage. The floral flavors, such as lavender, come and go in popularity,” she explains. Other regions have equally recognizable characteristics.

A former owner of the 17th-century Château du Feÿ in northern Burgundy, where she ran a cooking school for 20 years, Willan says herbs grown in the north of France don’t deliver the same pungency, and lots of parsley and mint are used. In Burgundy, it’s about the onion flavors: chives, leeks, and garlic. Bordeaux, Willan says, favors sage “and very good cheese and wonderful wine.”

The choice of fat is telling, too. In Brittany, goose fat is used; in the south, olive oil; and the rest, Willan says, is butter country. These “natural” fats, she suggests, are far healthier than manmade varieties such as margarine.

A constant healthy practice in country French cuisine is a dedication to cooking with whatever organic produce is seasonally available. “Farmers’ markets are everywhere, even in the smallest of places. Whatever fish came in that day is what is on the menu [and] whatever vegetable or fruit looks best. And also people will grow gardens in their backyards,” Willan explains.

Wine contributes not only flavor but also a title. “A dish will be named for the wine that is used in it. In the north, they’ll go with beer. In Normandy and Brittany, you’ll find cider,” she says. (A tip: For a mellow flavor, reduce alcohol for five or 10 minutes when cooking, she says. “It’s a residue of flavor that is left.”)

Invariably, the French refuse to waste. “We use everything in country cooking,” Willan says. “No edible part of an animal is thrown out; nothing from the garden is wasted. I keep a stockpot on the back of the stove to collect bits, such as mushroom trimmings, that will flavor stock. It’s great economy.”

French country cooking is clearly delicious, but is it healthful? What about the duck fat, the copious amounts of cheese, a whole bottle of wine in one recipe? Willan is adamant: “I say it is healthy because it is living off the land. Fresh ingredients that are locally harvested and prepared in a way that is satisfying is always the best way to enjoy food. The French eat bread with both the main meals, a small amount of cheese; they always have vegetables and possibly fruit and much smaller protein amounts. That’s a really good balance of very healthy ingredients.”

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Gambas Grillés au Sel de Mer (Seared Prawns With Sea Salt)

Serves 2 or 3 as a main course, or 4 as a first course
 
This recipe suits many sizes of prawns, from giant gambas (jumbo prawns) on down, including langoustines (scampi or Dublin Bay prawns). The prawns must be large, raw, and in their shells, with or without heads. Don’t use small shrimp, as they will absorb too much salt. Here is the place to use your special fleur de sel. You will find that your guests will jump right in, peeling the shellfish at the table as a first course or luxurious main course.

1 1⁄2 to 2 pounds jumbo prawns
1⁄4 cup cornstarch
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, more if needed
Pepper, for serving

Peel and devein the prawns. Mix the cornstarch and salt in a bowl, add the prawns, and toss them until coated. Heat the oil in a sauté pan or deep frying pan over medium heat. When almost smoking, add half the prawns, spreading them flat in a single layer. Put a heavy pan on top of the prawns to press them down. Fry until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes, depending on their size. Remove the top pan, turn the prawns, press again, and brown the other side, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Remove the prawns from the pan and repeat with the remaining prawns, adding more oil if necessary.

Serve the prawns at once, very hot, passing the pepper mill for a topping of freshly ground pepper.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 4 servings): Calories: 295; Total Fat: 10 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 4 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 2 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 161 mg; Carbohydrates: 16 g; Fiber: 0 g; Protein: 33 g

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Sauté de Poulet au Vinaigre de Vin (Sauté of Chicken With Vinegar, Garlic, and Tomato)

Serves 4 to 6
 
I think you will be surprised by the mildly provocative tang of this Burgundian chicken recipe, which uses vinegar and lots of garlic that mellows and softens as it cooks and thickens the sauce. Vinegar—vin aigre or acid wine—is the natural by-product of any wine region, and at home I brew my own in a big crock in a quiet corner of the kitchen, feeding it from time to time with leftover red wine. I like to serve Poulet au Vinaigre de Vin with glazed root vegetables such as turnips, root celery, or carrots.

One 3 1⁄2 to 4 pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons butter
1 large head garlic, separated into cloves, unpeeled
1 cup red wine vinegar
3 tomatoes (about 1 pound total), chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 bouquet garni (a tied bundle of herbs, including fresh thyme, a bay leaf, and fresh parsley)
1 cup chicken broth, more if needed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Melt half of the butter in a sauté pan or deep frying pan over medium heat until it stops foaming. Add the chicken pieces, skin side down, and brown thoroughly, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn and brown the other side, 2 to 3 minutes longer.

Add the garlic cloves, cover, and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. Drain off the excess fat, holding the lid on the pan to trap the chicken pieces. Return the pan to the heat, add the vinegar, and continue simmering, uncovered, until well reduced, 10 to 15 minutes.

Add the tomatoes—they don’t need to be skinned or peeled because the sauce is strained later—to the chicken with the tomato paste and bouquet garni. Cover the pan again and continue cooking until the chicken is tender and falls easily from a two-pronged fork, 10 to 15 minutes longer. If some pieces are tender before the others, remove and set them aside while the rest continue to cook.

Transfer the chicken pieces to a serving dish, cover with aluminum foil, and keep warm. Add the broth to the pan and simmer the sauce, uncovered, until it is concentrated and lightly thickened, 5 to 8 minutes. Work the liquid and vegetables through a strainer into a saucepan, pressing hard to extract all the garlic and tomato pulp. Bring the sauce to a boil, take it off the heat, and whisk in the remaining butter in small pieces. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon the sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 6 servings): Calories: 649; Total Fat: 45 g; Saturated Fat: 15 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 9 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 18 g; Cholesterol: 253 mg; Sodium: 371 mg; Carbohydrates: 6 g; Fiber: 1 g; Protein: 50 g

TD&N Tip: Save 162 calories, 11 grams of fat, 4 grams of saturated fat, and 63 milligrams of cholesterol by splitting this recipe among 8.

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Ratatouille

Serves 6 as a first course, or 4 as a main course

The components of classic ratatouille— eggplant, zucchini, onions, tomatoes, and bell peppers—flourish quite far north in France, but somehow this stew always tastes more vivid along the Mediterranean. The seasoning typically includes generous amounts of garlic, with herbs and spices depending on the cook’s taste. Elizabeth David, author of the definitive French Provincial Cooking, preferred coriander seeds, and I like to follow her example. I also like the vegetables to retain some texture, so I don’t bother to peel them, though I do reduce them to an aromatic, savory stew in true country style. Ratatouille may be served hot or at room temperature and improves immeasurably when made a day or two ahead.

2 small eggplants (about 12 ounces total), trimmed, halved lengthwise, and cut crosswise into slices 3⁄8 inch thick
12 ounces small zucchini, trimmed and cut into slices 1⁄2 inch thick
Salt and pepper
1⁄4 cup olive oil
2 onions, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, crushed
1 pound tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced
1 large bouquet garni (a tied bundle of herbs, including fresh thyme, a bay leaf, and fresh parsley)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Spread the sliced eggplants and zucchini on trays, sprinkle them with salt, and leave to stand for about 30 minutes to draw out the juices. Rinse them with cold water, drain, and dry on paper towels.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a flameproof casserole over medium heat. Add the onions, salt, and pepper and sauté until translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Take the casserole from the heat. Mix the garlic and coriander seeds with pepper and a little salt in a small bowl. Layer the eggplants, zucchini, tomatoes, and peppers in the casserole, sprinkling each layer with the garlic mixture. Spoon the remaining oil on top and push the bouquet garni into the vegetables. Cover and simmer gently over low heat until the vegetables are quite tender, stirring occasionally to mix them, 25 to 35 minutes. If the stew is too soupy, remove the lid for the last 15 minutes of cooking.

Discard the bouquet garni, taste, and adjust the seasoning. Ratatouille may be refrigerated for up to 2 days and warmed gently on the stovetop before serving. Serve it in the casserole, sprinkled with parsley.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 4 servings): Calories: 254; Total Fat: 15 g; Saturated Fat: 2 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 2 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 10 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 24 mg; Carbohydrates: 30 g; Fiber: 12 g; Protein: 6 g

Recipes reprinted with permission from The Country Cooking of France by Anne Willan, www.chroniclebooks.com

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