Pumpkin: A Fall Icon

The season’s icon—the pumpkin—suffers from an identity crisis. First, it’s typically used as a vegetable, when in fact, biologically, it’s a fruit. What’s worse, although it can be used in myriad ways, it’s seldom called upon to show its extraordinary versatility. Instead, it’s seen as merely a pie filling or decorative object. While pumpkins gorgeously announce the onset of autumn, many of us fail to see anything but a narrow glimpse of versatile culinary range.

Cooking With Pumpkins

Native to Mexico, pumpkins became a New World discovery when Native American Indians introduced them to pilgrims. The Indians pounded the pumpkins flat and dried them so that they’d have a source of nonperishable sustenance and a commodity with which to trade. They gave these fruits as gifts to colonists, who used them in stews, sweets, and to make ale, as we continue to do today.

Pumpkins are also perfect for roasting. Caramelizing the natural sugars and evaporating part of the moisture deepens the flavor. Stirring purées (canned or from scratch) into risotto, polenta, quick breads, muffins, and cookies adds flavor and moisture, and pumpkin makes a delicious filling for pastas such as tortellini and ravioli.

Pumpkins come in a variety of types, sizes, shapes, and colors (orange, red, white, and even blue). The smaller varieties tend to be sweeter and less mealy. Their protective outer skin can be intimidating to the many home cooks who reach for the can when they prepare the Thanksgiving pie filling. One hundred percent pure canned pumpkin filling (not pie filling, which is sweetened and contains spices) is convenient and more nutritious than fresh because it’s concentrated, contains less water, and therefore has more nutrients and phytochemicals. However, using the purée can limit your cooking choices, especially when you want to see the bits of pumpkin flesh in the dish or toast the pumpkin seeds for crunchy garnishes or snacks. Generally, canned pumpkin is a quick, tasty, and healthy choice for all recipes that ask for purée.

However, if you want to start from scratch, don’t attempt to “peel” the skin of a pumpkin. Thanks to the pumpkin’s curves and thick, hard texture, peeling would be time consuming and a bit dangerous (one slip of the knife...). Instead, use a sturdy knife to cut the pumpkin into large chunks or wedges. Then cook the chunks in lightly salted boiling water until tender, 30 to 40 minutes, and drain. When they’re cool enough to handle, slip off the skins, and, using a potato masher or ricer, purée the pulp.

A Superfood

Festive, multifaceted, and healthful, pumpkins have it all. Among their many nutritional highlights, is a super-high level of beta-carotene, which lends vibrant color. The body converts beta-carotene, as well as other carotenoids, to vitamin A. One half cup of canned pumpkin purée provides enough beta-carotene to supply 540% of the daily value (DV) for vitamin A. It also provides 25% of the DV for vitamin K, 10% for vitamin C, 4 grams of fiber, and many trace minerals.

Like the majority of nuts and seeds, pumpkin seeds are exceptionally good for you. They can be seasoned (spicy or sweet) and roasted to crunchy perfection. Not only do they make a nice snack, but they can top pies, custards, sauces, and pumpkin-containing starches such as pilafs, polenta, risotto, mashes, and gratins. The seeds provide not only great taste and texture contrast but also healthy unsaturated fats (omega-3s for one), as well as fiber, iron, zinc, magnesium, and manganese.

Growing, Harvesting, and Storing

Pumpkins are relatively easy to grow. In fact, they can make you look as if you have a green thumb. Space is the only issue; their vines spread over roughly a 10-foot diameter and can quickly overrun other plants in your garden.

Pumpkin picking is a right of passage into autumn. Whether harvesting your own or picking at a farm, look for pumpkins with a healthy green stem and a dull finish; if they’re shiny, it’s too soon. Again, smaller pumpkins tend to be more tender and flavorful.

A root cellar is the ideal place to store pumpkins because it’s relatively dry and not too cold or hot. There, your harvest will last through midwinter. If you don’t have access to a root cellar, store your pumpkin in the refrigerator for up to one month. To increase a pumpkin’s storage time, combine 1 tablespoon of chlorine bleach with 1 gallon of water. Scrub the pumpkins to remove any dirt that can later become rot or mold and hasten decomposition. Thoroughly dry and store the washed pumpkins. This technique also works with decorative gourds.

— Laura Pensiero, RD

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