Wild Weeds

Buying Lions: What to Look For • Dandy Greens Pasta • Wild Dandelion Greens Salad • Further Reading

Want to experiment with some wild weeds? Now, don’t get me wrong—these greens are not illegal, and that’s good because your lawn may be guilty of possession. We’re talking about dandelions, incredible edible herbs within almost everyone’s reach.

Dandelions have positive, cheerful characteristics; they can be described as golden, resilient, and fluffy. But we don’t love them. They are, in fact, weeds that are scorned by many and praised by few. Fans of dandelions have the cheek to call them bitter greens and then expect to make us converts. That seems irrational, doesn’t it? Even so, perhaps they’ll win us over. After all, there’s a certain appeal to showing these death-defying little weeds who’s boss by frying them up for dinner.

“Dandelions are such an amazing—and amazingly easy—wild food to harvest,” says author and celebrity farm girl MaryJane Butters. She speaks rather romantically about the common perennial, whose original name “dent-de-lion” is Old French for “lion’s tooth.” Butters shuns the flavors that most Americans have adopted—processed and sweet—and maintains that the tang of wild edibles brings your taste buds back to earth. She encourages her farm followers to finely chop their dandelion-laced salads and eat them with a spoon to take in more healthful greens

Mean Greens

Jekka McVicar, author of The Complete Herb Book and, according to fellow foodie and chef Jamie Oliver, the “Queen of Herbs,” says dandelions’ weedy reputation turns people off. “If it were elusive or difficult to grow, I’m sure it would be in great demand as a salad plant,” she explains.

But this president of the West of England Herb Group sings dandelions’ praises, noting that every part of the plant is in some way useful, which is why it’s included in the staggering 600 varieties of herbs carefully tended on her organic farm. “The flowers are edible and the leaves have a very high content of vitamins A, B, C, and D.” The greens are a source of calcium, magnesium, copper, manganese, iron, potassium, fiber, and protein.

Although it’s common knowledge that dandelion leaves are a diuretic, earning their modern French moniker pissenlit (wet the bed), McVicar says, “Dandelion leaves differ from conventional diuretics because they’re also rich in potassium,” which is usually depleted from the body with prepared diuretics. Thus, she explains, dandelion tea has been thought to be a natural remedy for kidney stones and also a mild laxative used to treat constipation.

Gourmet Greens

If your interest in dandelions is more culinary than medicinal, Mark Dommen, executive chef and partner of the acclaimed One Market Restaurant in San Francisco, may persuade you of the goodness of these greens. Dommen first learned how to use dandelions in cooking when he studied abroad. European chefs, Dommen says, like to cultivate dandelions in dark environs to promote bright yellow leaves that look spectacular on a plate. “When I create a dish, I am trying to hit all of the flavors at once in a balanced way,” Dommen says. “In a salad, dandelions provide a bitter note that plays well against the sweetness of fruit, the salty crunch of nuts, and the flavors of milder greens.”

Some chefs aren’t as bold with their use but find value in the herb’s pungent flavor. Chef Philip Mihalski, owner of Nell’s restaurant in Seattle, says, “I find them a bit strong to eat as a salad. But I really like dandelions in a dish where they are cooked just a little bit.” One feature at Nell’s was dandelion ravioli. “We julienne the greens and mix it with ricotta and Parmesan cheese to make a filling for the ravioli. They give a nice sharp flavor.”

Beguiled by the Wild

Butters, who roasts dandelion roots on a cookie sheet and then brews them into “coffee,” prefers to pass up the green stems and eat only the leaves, flowers, and tender taproots. She gathers the leaves in early spring, along with other young, tender lettuces. “Just snip and wash them as you would lettuce leaves,” Butters says. “These little dandies add a wonderfully distinct taste to spring salads. If you’re looking for a unique addition to pasta dishes or veggie medleys, sauté dandy leaves for about 20 minutes with garlic and olive oil.”

Later in the summer months, she picks the blooms. “When those lovely little yellow flowers first appear, rejoice because they will ‘sunny up’ salads and stir-fried veggies, or dip them in batter and fry ‘em up for a ‘meaty’ appetizer.” The flowers also make for an interesting Asian style pickle when left to cure in vinegar and spices, and some folks use the sunny flowers to make wine.

The taproot is best during the off-season from late fall to early spring. Butters’ favorite way to use them is washed and chopped and added to simmering stews that mellow their flavor. She adds, “No matter how you pick, prepare, or serve them, dandelions are a delight!”

MICHELE DEPPE is an award-winning freelance writer based in Bothell, Washington.

Buying Lions: What to Look For

Mark Dommen sources his dandelions from local farmers’ markets and his local Whole Foods grocery and says, “The mature dandelions come in bunches, and the baby greens are loose.”

If you’re procuring yours from an obliging field, just make sure it’s an area free from chemical treatment and at least 50 feet away from heavy traffic. “They’re easy to find,” says MaryJane Butters, who gives tips on foraging for wild edibles in her new book, MaryJane’s Outpost: Unleashing Your Inner Wild. “And we don't have to worry about confusing them with poisonous look-alikes because there aren't any!”

Dandy Greens Pasta

6 servings

2 c dandelion greens, washed, drained, and stemmed
2 eggs
1 T olive oil
1⁄2 t salt
1 1⁄2 c flour

Combine dandy greens, oil, eggs, and salt in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Gradually add flour, stirring with a wooden spoon until dough becomes incorporated. Turn dough out onto surface and knead for 2 minutes. Roll out 1⁄8-inch thick. Dry 1 hour on surface before cutting into long noodles or other shapes. Cook in boiling water for about 3 minutes.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis: Calories: 166; Total Fat: 4 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 1 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 2 g; Cholesterol: 70 mg; Sodium: 232 mg; Carbohydrates: 26 g; Fiber: 1 g; Protein: 6 g
TD&N Tip: If you’re watching your cholesterol, try an egg substitute instead.

Wilted Dandelion Greens Salad

4 servings

2 T olive oil
2 shallots, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
2 T golden raisins
2 T red wine vinegar
1 lb fresh dandelion greens, washed and stemmed
3 slices cooked bacon
1 apple, cored and sliced into very thin pieces
Salt and freshly cracked pepper

Heat oil in a wide saucepan and sauté shallots for 1 minute over medium heat. Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds, until barely browned. Stir in the golden raisins and vinegar, cooking for a few minutes. Remove pan from heat and add the greens, tossing to wilt. Transfer to a large bowl and toss with bacon and sliced apple. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis: Calories: 204; Total Fat: 10 g; Saturated Fat: 2 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 2 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 10 g; Cholesterol: 5 mg; Sodium: 201 mg; Carbohydrates: 27 g; Fiber: 6 g; Protein: 6 g

Recipes used with permission from MaryJane’s Outpost: Unleashing Your Inner Wild by Mary Jane Butters, www.randomhouse.com